ACRL 2019

Mandi Goodsett, Evan Meszaros, Michelle S. Millet, and Jennine Vlach

Welcome to Cleveland

An introduction to the Rock and Roll Capital of the World

Mandi Goodsett is performing arts and humanities librarian at Cleveland State University’s Michael Schwartz Library, email: a.goodsett@csuohio.edu, Evan Meszaros is research services librarian at Case Western Reserve University‘s Kelvin Smith Library, email: evan.meszaros@case.edu, Michelle S. Millet is director of the Grasselli Library and Breen Learning Center at John Carroll University, email: mmillet@jcu.edu, and Jennine Vlach is team leader of access and delivery services, at Case Western Reserve University, email: jennine.vlach@case.edu © 2018 Mandi Goodsett, Evan Meszaros, Michelle S. Millet, and Jennine Vlach

We’re all very excited to have you join us April 10–13, 2019, in Cleveland for the ACRL 2019 conference. The theme, “Recasting the Narrative,” is definitely an appropriate descriptor for current-day Cleveland. Gone is most of the manufacturing that made Cleveland the fifth largest city in the country in the mid-20th century. Our city’s current renaissance is built on medicine, arts, and foodie culture.

In this first article, we’re going to briefly introduce you to the city, its history, and the neighborhoods around it. In future articles leading up to the conference, we will discuss social justice, arts, culture and sports, local libraries, and dining. Cleveland has something for just about everyone. Really, we want you to see the Cleveland we’ve all come to know and love, and love it yourself just as much.

Geography and history

Located on the southern shore of Lake Erie and straddling the once infamously flammable Cuyahoga River, Cleveland has been home to a diversity of people for centuries. Beginning with the Adena and Hopewell Mound Builders more than 1,000 years ago, Cleveland and its immediate vicinity were inhabited by the Native Americans of the Mississippian culture, the Erie Indians, and groups of the Ottawa Nation before European American fur trappers and settlers moved into the region. The City of Cleveland was founded in 1796 by Moses Cleaveland of the Connecticut Land Co., a group of speculators who had purchased the State of Connecticut’s “Western Reserve”—much of what is now northeast Ohio—to parcel and sell to settlers moving west. Perhaps because the city’s founder spent very little time living there, the citizens of the young city eventually began spelling the name of the city without the expendable “a,” as it is currently spelled.

By the time of the Civil War, Cleveland’s population had grown to more than 43,000 residents, and the city had incorporated several adjoining communities, such as Ohio City and Chagrin Falls, which today comprise some of Cleveland’s many neighborhoods. These neighborhoods were generally segregated by nationality, and the diversity of nationalities and ethnicities represented by these neighborhoods increased steadily throughout the city’s history. Whereas the early- and mid-19th century largely saw English and Germans settling in the area, waves of Italians, Russians, Austro-Hungarians, Slovaks, Poles, and other Eastern and Southern European immigrants—many of whom were also Jewish—followed throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries. After the Civil War and the emancipation of Southern slaves, Cleveland also saw a steady increase in the number of African Americans moving to the area. To reflect the city’s increasing diversity, the first of the Cleveland Cultural Gardens was introduced in 1916 to Rockefeller Park on the city’s east side, and, since the end of World War II, the city has celebrated its annual One World Day throughout the park’s 31 cultural gardens.

Cleveland was also the home to a number of “firsts” during the Second Industrial Revolution. It was notably the birthplace of John D. Rockefeller and his Standard Oil Co., the first city to experience electric street lights in 1879, and the home of the inventor of the three-light traffic signal, Garrett Morgan. Around the turn of the 20th century, Cleveland’s dominant stature in U.S. steel manufacturing led to an explosion in its population and economic growth. In 1930, Cleveland was the fifth largest city in the country, with a population of more than 900,000. Technological innovations like trains, cable cars, and skyscrapers, in addition to the booming industries of steel and manufacturing, propelled Cleveland to renown among American cities. The city’s train station, Cleveland Union Terminal, was built in the 1920s, and the Terminal Tower that stood above it was the tallest building in the world outside of New York City until 1967. The arts also blossomed in Cleveland during this time, as the stately Cleveland Museum of Art was erected in 1916, and the Cleveland Orchestra’s gorgeous Severance Hall was built in 1931.

Beginning in the late 1960s and continuing into the 1980s, however, the population of Cleveland decreased quickly as, like many “rust belt cities,” the industries that had made Cleveland prosperous began to die out. Poverty, crime, and racial tensions took center stage at this time, and Cleveland fell into disrepute. The city also experienced now legendary pollution, epit-omized by the Cuyahoga River occasionally catching fire. One such fire in 1969 was the impetus for President Nixon to form the Environmental Protection Agency and the Clean Water Act.

Fortunately, Cleveland has since experienced a renewal, bringing a new wave of tourists to the city, a foodie and craft beer scene, and even the 2016 Republican National Convention. In downtown Cleveland, several old theaters that had been slated for demolition were renovated and developed into the Playhouse Square District, the largest performing arts center in the country after Lincoln Center in New York City. Institutions like the Cleveland Clinic, Case Western Reserve University, and Cleveland State University have seen considerable growth in the last decade, and they bring a diversity of residents, as well as innovative ideas, to the city.

Cleveland’s many museums, such as the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and the Great Lakes Science Center, continue to bring in tourists from across the country, and the city’s charming neighborhoods—from Little Italy and Larchmere on the east to Tremont and Ohio City on the west—offer restaurants, shopping, and entertainment options that reflect the diverse residents who live there.

Getting around

The public transportation system of Cleveland (the RTA) is small, but mighty, and will be quite useful during your visit. First up, you can take the Red Line rapid rail from the Cleveland Hopkins International Airport straight to Tower City/Public Square/Downtown for $2.50. (Day passes are $5.50.) All of the ACRL conference hotels are located within a few blocks of Tower City. In addition, there is a free trolley system with four different routes that loop around downtown and into the Flats, stopping at several destinations of note. The C-line trolley has a Convention Center stop. Rounding out your options is a bus system and a bike share program, supported by University Hospitals. If you choose to use Uber or Lyft, they are also fairly easy to grab in the downtown area and surrounding neighborhoods.

Lay of the land

Because Cleveland is situated to the south of Lake Erie, it can help to know that the lake is always to the North. Most Clevelanders divide up the neighborhoods surrounding Cleveland into the east and west sides. The west side consists of Lakewood, Rocky River, and the surrounding communities, and can be accessed by crossing the Cuyahoga River via the Art Deco Hope Memorial Bridge, featuring the iconic Guardians of Traffic statues or the striking steel Veterans Memorial Bridge that spans from downtown to West 25th Street. The east side is composed of suburbs like Cleveland Heights, Shaker Heights, and University Heights, all of which, as their names suggest, signal the beginning of the Appalachian landscape that continues through western Pennsylvania. Clevelanders are often proud of their chosen side of town, so don’t be surprised if you encounter someone vehemently defending the east or west side.

Downtown

Downtown Cleveland is centered on Public Square. This small but vibrant green space is also home to the Soldiers & Sailors Monument, dedicated to the veterans of the Civil War. There’s a neat little free museum inside, underneath the statue. On weekends, people can be seen playing in the fountains or availing themselves of the free games or yoga. Marches, protests, rallies, and festivals all start and end here at Public Square.

In the downtown area, you’ll find East 4th Street, a pedestrian-only section of downtown filled with some of our best restaurants, including one operated by our James Beard award winner Jonathon Sawyer. If the weather cooperates, patios will be open and full. Sitting outside and eating and drinking on the patio is a sport all its own in Cleveland. We’ve been inside all winter so when the sun comes out, so do we. Also downtown is the flagship main branch of the Cleveland Public Library, an impressive 1920s-era building that includes a Works Progress Administration art mural by Ora Coltman. Tower City, across from Public Square, is another early 20th-century gem, and, at one time, the tallest building in the United States. It has an observation deck available and often has a family of peregrine falcons watching high above the city.

The Huntington Convention Center of Cleveland is a few blocks north of Public Square in the Mall area. Much of the facility itself is underground, and it has a green rooftop. In partnership with the Global Center for Health Innovation, the Convention Center is a leader in green and sustainable food and services on premises. On-site restaurants use produce grown at the Convention Center and are in partnership with a local farm for other products. Across from the Convention Center is a mall with the famous Free Stamp. Don’t forget to take a selfie with it. Keep looking from there, and you’ll be able to see the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, Lake Erie, and the rest of the North Coast Harbor area.

One thing to note about Cleveland’s downtown is that it is a walkable city and, add in the trollies or other public transportation, you should be able to see many of our favorite things and places. Several historic buildings are from Cleveland’s 20th-century heyday and are beautifully repurposed. Check out the downtown Heinen’s grocery store in a former bank, as an example.

Playhouse Square, just east of downtown, is home to our theater district. Take a trolley ride or a stroll down Euclid Avenue. You can’t miss it because the world’s largest outdoor chandelier (a gift from General Electric) is hanging above. Next to Rockefeller Center, the theater complex here is the largest in the United States.

Two other areas downtown that are worth mentioning are the Flats and the Warehouse District. The Flats is a newly revitalized area. The East Bank has several great restaurants. The West Bank contains a popular music venue, Nautica Pavillion, the Cleveland Aquarium, and the Music Box Supper Club. If you’re a late-night/dancing kind of librarian, the Warehouse District will be your jam.

Neighborhoods

Like to explore? The neighborhoods outside of downtown Cleveland all have a lot of cool things to offer. Here’s a peek at some of our favorites.

University Circle/Uptown. Home to several of our most important institutions, including Case Western Reserve University, the Cleveland Orchestra, the Cleveland Museum of Art, and the Cleveland Museum of Natural History, to name a few. Grab a hot dog and cover it with Froot Loops at Happy Dog at the Euclid Tavern. This neighborhood is accessible via the Health Line or the Red Line train.

Ohio City. Walk over the Guardians of Traffic Bridge or take the red line one stop from Tower City and you’re right in the heart of a fun neighborhood with good restaurants and unique bars. Don’t miss the Westside Market or the Transformer Station, an outpost of modern art.

Tremont. This neighborhood is probably Cleveland’s hippest spot. Loaded with restaurants and bars, there’s lots to see and eat. Tremont also has a First Friday art walk.Accessible via bus, bike, or share a ride.

Little Italy. Cleveland proudly still boasts being home to its very own Little Italy, filled with great food and bakeries. Our Little Italy started with Italian immigrants who came to Cleveland largely in the early 20th century to work with marble. A large amount of marble went into building Lakeview Cemetery, located directly up the hill. You can get to this neighborhood on the Red Line.

St. Claire/Superior. This corridor, west of downtown, is filled with old factories that are being revitalized. Cleveland’s Asiatown is here, and the Cleveland Flea calls it home. If you make it over here, don’t miss Superior Phó. Try the bus or share a ride.

Detroit Shoreway. Within this neighborhood along the shoreway you’ll find the Gordon Square Arts District. The revitalization of this area brought several new options for food and shopping. It’s accessible via the Red Line, bus, or share a ride.

Climate

Look, we aren’t going to lie to you. It might be cold. It might be sunny. There’s a saying that we Clevelanders use a lot that goes, “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes.” That large lake to our North? She does what she wants. So bring layers of clothing, and we’ll have a great time either way. Hopefully you will not hear the words “lake effect snow” while you’re here. If you do? No worries. Everything in Cleveland stays open.

Thanks for reading our introductory article about the place we call home. We hope you will love Cleveland as much as we do. Until next time.